#1: Whether your holster is made of cowhide, horsehide, polymer, or some other stuff, it should be made from only the finest materials. This will guarantee a good fit and years of service.
#2.: The holster should be made to fit a specific model of pistol and then you should use it for only that type of pistol. A holster that carries a gun too loose, or too tight, will only let you down when you need it the most.
#3: The holster should be mated to a belt that is the same width as the belt slots on the holster. The belt should also be sturdy enough to support the weight of your pistol, holster, and extra ammo carrier, without sagging.
#4: A concealment holster should not have a safety strap, thumb snap, or push-button release, on it. You should be able to grip the gun and go because you will probably be dealing with bad guys who already have their weapons in their hands. The only exception is the screw-tension device, as seen on the holster above, which holds the pistol a bit more snugly without impeding the draw.
#5: The holster should be designed so that the top stays open, allowing the shooter to re-holster with one hand. You shouldn’t have to use two hands to re-holster and you shouldn’t have to look at the holster to get the job done. Your hands and eyes may have much more important things to do.
#6: You should be able to draw from your concealment holster with your support hand. This is another reason to avoid straps, thumb snaps, and the like. Your strong-side arm might be injured, or the bad guys may have jumped you from behind and grabbed your shooting arm. Practicing support-hand shooting should be accompanied by practicing support-hand drawing. Get a holster that allows this.
NOTE: Often copied by many holster makers, this is the #4532 Liberty holster, designed by Bruce Nelson and Gordon Davis. This model is built by Dave Cox at Davis Leather Company.